La Dolce Vita: Myth vs. Reality — The Truth About Daily Life, Work Culture, and Relaxation in Italy

A few things might come to mind when Italy-obsessed visitors think of the Boot-shaped peninsula: pasta and pizza, endless cones of gelato, magnificent coastlines and mountainous peaks, long, slow lunches, effortless style, and a “slow” life many from abroad admire. For decades, the notion of “la dolce vita,” meaning “the sweet life,”  has taken the world by storm, first thanks to the 1960 film by Federico Fellini, titled La Dolce Vita, which, in summary, romanticized Rome and Roman life, depicting the city streets as an open-air life museum of glamour, romance, indulgence, lust, and a luscious life. 

Today, if we aren’t finding the #ladolcevita hashtag on Instagram alone, which amounts to more than 1.8 million posts, our feeds are filled with relatives and acquaintances vacationing in Italy, sipping orangey-spritzes in the sun-drenched piazza, and boats to, from, and along the Amalfi Coast. Now again on screen as Netflix’s hit sensation Emily in Paris season 5 traded Paris for Rome and Italy, it once again depicts a fairy-tale like pipe dream that all of us who love Italy have fantasies about from time to time. 

But, for those who live and work in Italy, the truth behind this idea of la dolce vita is not always what one-trip visitors and life-long Italy-obsessed travelers have in mind. There is no doubt that Italy is home to incredible people, a decadent, diverse country-wide cuisine, and a terrain that offers everything: 7,000km of coastline, history, ruins, and the Renaissance. Yet what a picture-perfect TikTok video won’t always reveal is the daily reality millions of citizens and residents face, including modest salaries, increasingly demanding work schedules, economic challenges, and a further-fading idea of “balance.” To understand Italy in all its facets, beyond the myth, let’s take a look at what la dolce vita really means and how this life-long sweetness and struggle often coexist in day-to-day life. 

The Sluggish Salary

Italy is notoriously known for a wobbly job market, low pay, and a lack of job contracts, forcing many younger Italians to pack up and find a life elsewhere. Italy’s data agency, ISTAT, reported that a quarter of the Italian population, nearly 23%, were at risk of poverty or social exclusion at the end of 2024. Italy has had stagnant wages for decades, especially for young professionals, creating zero opportunities for growth, pay raises, and working bonuses. Entry-level salaries range from €1,200 to €1,600 per month. While some cities like Milan and Rome may offer slightly higher salaries, the cost of living and rental markets in these bigger cities have led Italians to pay up to 75% of their salaries in rent. To paint the picture, the average net earnings for a nurse are €1,500, a public school teacher €1,400–€1,600, and an engineer ~€1,950. Many in the service industries work under the table, without contract protection, and can expect fewer benefits and greater instability. 

Work Culture: The Not-So Reality of Endless Lunch Breaks

Shops across Italy, from small towns down south to bustling cities like Rome and Milan, may close for lunch from 1:30 to 4:30 pm, but most workers do not. Many sectors do not follow this tradition. For example, service industry workers, office employees, bankers, and staff at large retail chains typically have a short break before returning to their desks or shifts, resembling the traditional “9-5” or more like 8:30 to 6:00 pm. Many lunch breaks, 45 minutes to an hour, are sometimes spent on miscellaneous errands, like going to the post office, which is often closed by 1:00 pm in many parts of Italy. 

Bureaucracy: The Hidden Frustration

A classic reality of everyday Italian life is the famous word we hear even as visitors: bureaucracy. Yes, it is true. Many things in Italy do not work, and if they do, it takes the second or third time around to get things moving smoothly. Paperwork for permits, taxes, and residency can be extremely slow, complex, and unreliable. Small, one of the administrative tasks that seems simple, requires multiple stops, offices, and appointments to do something that should take 15 minutes. There is beauty in the hiccups of these stories, but living them day to day comes with tiredness and, quite frankly, a lot of delusion and frustration. 

Demographic Reality: The Falling Birth Rate

Financial insecurity and housing costs make family planning nearly impossible. As we discussed previously, the birth rate hasn’t risen in nearly 16 years. Italy and Italians absolutely love children in everyday settings, but the idea of having a child and raising them in Italy poses its own challenges. Day cares are increasingly difficult to get into, maternity leave for the mother and father is short-term, and the idea that the family unit will raise the young children is a very long-lost pipe dream for many Italians who no longer live close to family after moving to big cities to try and earn a decent living. 

Childcare and school schedules add another layer of complexity. 

Many schools close for the day at around 1–2 pm, and daycare or after-school programs close by 4:30 on the dot. The cultural norms of school life clearly do not align with working hours, forcing parents with full-time jobs to really rely on extended family and private help to make day-to-day life run somewhat smoothly. It is worth adding that Italy is one of the countries with the longest summer breaks in the world, with very few summer care solutions. 

Where La Dolce Vita Actually Exists

Aside from some harsh realities of Italian day-to-day life, at the end of the day, there are so many moments that we Italians may take for granted that could be part of this whole la dolce vita thing after all. There are small, everyday intentional moments ingrained in Italian culture—a quick 5 minute espresso at the bar to catch up with a colleague, the after-work aperitivo culture even during the most hectic days to take a minute and take a breath. Many Sundays remain sacred for family lunches, with multiple courses at home or an outing to a favorite local trattoria to celebrate the “day of rest.” In cities like Rome, Florence, Verona, and Naples, there is beauty just around every corner—art, churches, picturesque fountains and villas, and residents who see that beauty as part of everyday life, even in the most nuanced ways. 

Written by Gabriela R Proietti

How To Be a Conscious Traveler in Italy: Mindful Tourism in Il Bel Paese 

It goes without saying that Italy is one of the leading tourism destinations in the world. Not many other nations can claim to be home to the most UNESCO World Heritage-recognized sites, national monuments, and a diverse terrain that encompasses mountains, sea, and nature. Italy is also the host of the Vatican, home to one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and sees over roughly 60 million international arrivals annually. There is decadent cuisine, a beautifully spoken language, and the allure of Italian culture that draws so many of us in.

But while increasing numbers of visitors certainly boost the Italian economy, it does come with a double-edged sword. In recent years, there has been a lot of talk about overtourism—especially in hotspot destinations like Florence, Venice, and Rome. As more and more travelers enter the country, it is now facing the many challenges of this increasing influx of people: skyrocketing housing costs, overcrowded historic centers, rising prices for outings, services, and food that make it difficult for locals to afford, excess litter, and the gradual erasing of local traditions and daily life.

According to Statista, there are over 500,000 Airbnb listings throughout the country. In Rome alone, the city has over 35,000 listings as of 2024, which means there are 35,000 homes no longer available for citizens or residents to rent long-term. There’s this million-dollar question amongst locals: When will the overtourism bubble finally pop? But the real question is—will it ever? Rather than debating whether we should travel to Italy, the question should be how we travel to and throughout Italy. 

Below are a few suggestions on how to be a conscious traveler if you are planning to come and explore the Boot firsthand.  

Lean on Accommodations Outside of Airbnb

Sometimes Airbnb does sound like it offers all the bells and whistles—especially with the idea that us traveling can “live like a local.” After all, you’re staying in the home of one. But if you want to avoid Airbnb, you don’t have to default to an overpriced five-star hotel, either.

Italy offers so many other types of accommodations that feel equally luxurious, comforting, and “local.” Instead of browsing the Airbnb app, consider exploring family-run bed and breakfasts (hint: there are many!), locally owned hotels, or, if you’re staying in the Italian countryside, agriturismo (farm stays), which have been quite the talk of the town lately for everything they offer. 

Follow the Locals’ Suggestions

With the rise of social media alongside tourism, it’s easy to fall into an algorithm of city recommendations made by someone who shot a pretty video but only visited that place for roughly 24 hours. If you’re looking for the authentic vita italiana, try to plan and find recommendations from locals or residents who specialize in sustainable travel.

For example, suppose you’re headed to the Eternal City and looking for restaurant recommendations. In that case, there are incredible food writers, bloggers, or local food tour guides who have created free suggestions on their social media channels or websites made for us. Not only are you more likely to have an authentic meal, but you’re also supporting local businesses, avoiding tourist traps, and tasting regional delicacies you won't expect to find anywhere else.

Visit During the Off-Season

Of course, nothing says “Italy” like estate italiana. Yes, something is alluring about a mid-July dip in the Mediterranean, but Italy isn’t only for the summer traveler. It might sound like an oversung suggestion, but visiting during the off-season (think fall, early spring, or even winter) gives you the chance to avoid the overwhelming crowds, walk the same streets with locals who were previously in hiding, and enjoy lower prices for flights and accommodations, and not to mention, cooler temperatures! 

If summer is your only travel window, try visiting lesser-traveled destinations. For example, instead of Florence, try Lecce or Bologna. Instead of Rome, consider heading to Orvieto or exploring the region of Abruzzo. Skip Venice and visit Vincenza. 

Make the Most of Walkable Cities and Public Transport

Train travel in Italy is an experience in itself. Not only is the rail system extremely advanced, with stops across the entire country, but it’s also a great way to see Italy without the stress of driving in a foreign country or renting a car. Many major cities also have easy-to-navigate metro, bus, and tram systems that cost around €1.50 per ticket. During high season, taxis are hard to come by and often charge more than necessary,  so if you’re in a walkable city like Milan or Florence, what better way to see city life than to walk the city blocks?

Have you traveled to Italy before or are you planning your first trip soon? If so, what are some ways you practice conscious travel, in Italy or elsewhere? Let us know if the comments below! 

Writer - Gabriela Proietti