Getting to Know Molise – Italy’s Most Mysterious Region 

“Molise non esiste” – Molise doesn’t exist. 

What started out as a joke amongst Italians alike has turned into a national phenomenon, poking light fun at one of Italy’s twenty regions—a mysterious, small, off-the-beaten-track type of region, that is. Surrounded by tourism-dominating regions like Puglia, Campania, and Abruzzo, it’s no wonder you may not have heard of this small, Narnia-like place. But contrary to popular belief, it absolutely does exist—and is beyond worth a trip down the Boot.

So, what’s waiting for you down in little ol’ Molise, you may ask?

Image - The Little Italian School (Campobasso)

Why It’s Worth Visiting

Molise is authentic as authenticity gets (That’s right, move over Orvieto and Bologna!). There are no high speed trains from major hub destinations like Rome and Florence, despite its decently central location, so off the bat, you’re already destined to take it slow. Instead, you are greeted with Adriatic coastlines, unspoilt nature, barely touched villages, traditional cuisine, and knowing each other by word of mouth. Molise feels like a breathe of fresh air. And you’ll want to definitely take in a few breaths when you visit, because the air is that fresh, believe us!

Mass tourism—and tourism in general, for that matter—has not taken over the region, which is what makes Molise all that much more magical. To get there, you’ll likely need to rent a car, take a regional train that involves a few pit stops along the way, meander on winding roads, or better yet, join a group tour with locals who are spearheading the open doors to those curious enough to explore the region. 

From ancient Samnite ruins to local artisans still practicing century-old crafts, there’s a richness that runs deep here you’ll feel as soon as you cross over into Molise territory. Into nature? Hike through mountain trails. Looking for that la vita lenta? Linger over a long lunch by the sea. Interested in observing daily life? Just sit in the piazza with a coffee and soak up the rhythm every day that not even Italians outside of Molise have seen. 

Image - The Little Italian School (Termoli - Adriatic Coast)

Molise’s two halves 

Molise is divided into two provinces.

First, Campobasso, the larger of the two, which is also home to the region’s capital. Campobasso—the cultural beating heart of Molise. It is perched between the Apennines and the Adriatic, and is definitely more traveled than its counterpart, Isernia. Isernia is quieter, smaller, and more mountainous—but don’t be fooled. It offers its own unique charm: centuries-old artisanal culture, traditional rural life, archaeological sites, and intimate annual festivals unique to each village.

Where to go 

Like exploring Rome in Lazio or Florence in Tuscany, it would only be amiss to skip out on Molise’s capital Campobasso. Starting what is noted as the one of the biggest symbols of the city and even the entire region, take the climb up the Castello Monforte, a medieval castle that is believed to date back to the 14th and 15th century that that overlooks the city and the mountains. After the trek back down, there is the Samnite Museum that explores the lives of the Samnite people via artifacts before the Romans arrived to the region. Take a chance to explore the town’s medieval historic center where you can get lost between tight corners and local trattorias. About a 40 minute drive from Campobasso, you’ll reach Molise’s coastal jewel along the Adriatic sea, called Termoli. The ancient fishing town is noted for its pastel color buildings, ancient walls, sandy beaches and crystal clear waters like a summer day at Spiaggia di Rio Vivo. 

Agnone, located in the province of Isernia, is an artisan haven. Known as the “town of bells,” it is home to the world-famous Marinelli Bell Foundry, noted as one of the oldest bell manufacturers in the world. There are also other traditional crafts prominent in the town,  like cheese-making and ironwork to check-out. Other notable towns to explore include Jelsi, noted for its extravagant sagre (festivals), Pietrabbondante, and Sepino, noted for its roman ruins. 

Image - The Little Italian School (Campobasso)

What to Eat

Let’s start with Cavatelli pasta which may just be Molise’s pride and joy. Originating from the territory famous for its production of durum wheat. Today, they are typically served with pork rib ‘sugo’, a specialty of the region. Then there’s Caciocavallo di Agnone, a nutty, stretched-curd cheese that’s often served melted over grilled bread. For a coastal dish, don’t miss out on Brodetto di Pesce alla Termolese—a flavorful fish stew from Termoli made with the daily catch, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs.

The Little Italian School Molise Tour

If you are keen to visit this little hidden gem we call home, join us on our Slow Living Molise Tour next July 2026. Click on the link to find out more here

Author Gabriela Proietti

Italy’s Magical Carnival Celebration 

You could say that the magic of Italy exists all year round – From stunning Tuscan landscapes to crystalline Ligurian coastlines to twinkling lights for the Christmas season and week-long Ferragosto summer seaside celebrations. Although there is nothing like an Italian summer or visiting the historic Christmas markets up north, travelers and curious Italy lovers often overlook a major Italian holiday called Carnevale. 

Celebrated for centuries, let’s look at one of Italy’s most lively celebrations throughout the year. 

What is Carnevale, anyway?

Elaborate, vibrate, expressive, and festive, Italy’s famous Carnevale season dates back to the Ancient Roman Times, which seems to be a common trend with many Italian foods, traditions, and holiday celebrations. The word, stemming from Latin “carne” and “vale,” literally means farewell to meat. By the Middle Ages, the week-long Carnevale celebration became an important cultural event throughout major Italian cities, most notably Venice and its masked balls, allowing citizens to indulge in gluttonous and fried food, excessive parties and parades, and non-stop costumes and entertainment before the 40 days of lent would begin. 

Festivities & events 

Today, the Carnival period occurs two weeks before Mercoledi delle Ceneri (Ash Wednesday). It ends more or less on Martedi Grasso (Fat Tuesday). Still, many cities anticipate the festivities in early February, especially places like Venice, Puglia, Ivra, and Viareggio, where some of the most elaborate parades and traditional events occur. Venice is famous for Venetians parading the streets in elaborate masks and ballroom costumes (think Marie Antoinette). Meanwhile, the citizens of Viareggio in Tuscany or Acireale in Sicily celebrate with elaborate and life-sized floats decorated with satirical figures and flowers. The strangest Carnival tradition takes place north in Ivrea, Piemonte, where civilians gather in the city’s square center to reenact the “Battle of the Oranges,” based on a medieval revolt where townspeople rebelled against an old tyrant. Today, teams gather and throw oranges at one another, honoring the once-upon-a-time battle. It sounds wild, but it is worth a visit if you can come to Italy and see it yourself. 

As for Italian children, the celebrations are some of the most exciting and magical time of the year. They celebrate the holiday much like children in North America celebrate Halloween, dressing up in costumes and masks but focusing more on mythical creatures and fairytales instead of costumes that play upon spooky, scary, or dark magic. Schools host costume parades with traditional desserts and sweet treats, and it is typical to see children and families gather in the major piazze (town squares) during the two weeks dressed in costumes to launch confetti and burst steamers with friends. 

Traditional Treats to Try

Speaking of sweet treats and traditional desserts, is it an Italian celebration without food being front and center? After all, Italians are preparing for the lenten period, which involves absence, so of course, the month leading up to the 40 days is for sugary and fried goodies. Treats vary from region to region but below are some of the most famous and notable desserts to look out for in Italy during the Carnival period or even try at home. 

Chiacchiere is the most famous Carnevale treat to date. It is essentially found throughout the entire Boot, sometimes with varying names. Chiacchiere are fried, thin, crispy strips of dough heavily dosed with powdered sugar. 

Castagnole are soft, small, bite-sized dough balls often filled with ricotta or a crema (cream) and finally tossed in powdered sugar for the finishing touches. 

Zeppole are more common for Father’s Day celebrations in Italy, aka San Giuseeppe, but they can be first seen in pastry shop windows at the start of February. Zeppole are light-ringed pastry dough filled with custard, ricotta, or jam, topped with a dark red cherry, and lightly dusted with powdered sugar. 

Struffoli, also called Pignolata or Cicerchiata, are mini deep-fried balls coated with honey and colorful sprinkles or candied fruit. Popular for holidays like Christmas and Easter, they also make an appearance at Carnevale.

Customs and Traditions: Celebrating the Holidays like an Italian 

If you are spending time in Italy for the holidays, consider yourself fortunato/a! And if you’re dreaming of the magical Boot from afar, you’re not the only one. In honor of the most merry time of year, learn about some of Italy’s most historical and quirky customs and traditions for the holiday season!

Rocking Around the Christmas Tree 

Although city squares and mom-and-pop shops may hang their twinkly lights earlier than the beginning of December, most Italian families wait until the 8th for tree cutting, ornament hanging, and festival music playing. The 8th of December in Italy is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. It is commonly reserved for a day when Italians decorate the tree as it is a national public holiday. Many families have the day off. This day also “kick-starts” the month-long festivities and holiday cheer! 

Presepi 

Throughout the month, from small hillside towns to big chaotic cities paint the town in spirit, setting up artisanal markets, baking seasonal goods, and presepi AKA nativity scenes. These presepi have deep roots in Italy, a tradition dating back to St. Francis of Assisi in 1223. However, aside from St. Francis, the annual tradition of creating a presepi has a deep history in southern cities like Naples, where presepi are taken as an art form, often highly detailed, and elaborate, including hundreds of figures from bakers and shepherds to villagers and animals. Often hand-carved and designed by artisans themselves, many cities host exhibits, display shows, and even live nativity scenes to enjoy these works of art in person. 

La Vigilia di Natale 

The eve of Christmas, December 24th, is known in Italy as La Vigilia di Natale and is the opener for food feasts for the next three days. Most Italian families reserve a multi-course dinner for seafood. A biblical tradition or not, courses include plates like baccalà, seafood salad, pasta and clams, smoked salmon or muscles, and much more. Each region has its seafood specialty on the table, and the southern-coastal towns tend to have the largest seafood spread, going as far as lining up in the early hours of the morning (I am talking 2 or 3 am) to have a first-hand at their fish selection at the local outdoor markets. 

Don’t expect la Vigilia to be over after an hour or two. Most households are up celebrating until midnight and beyond.With full bellies and even fuller hearts, some traditional Catholic families (again, many stemming from the Southern tip of the peninsula) even venture out to attend midnight mass. Others enjoy dessert (and yes, panettone and pandoro are included!), espresso, and present opening. However, in the spirit of Babbo Natale (Santa Clause), younger children wait until Christmas morning to open presents. 

Buona Fortuna & Buon Anno 

Along with wives' tales, folklore, and superstitions, Italians are always looking for ways to get extra lucky. New Year's Eve and New Year’s is the perfect time to practice some of these good-luck tales and traditions. New Year’s Eve’s dinner is just as important as staying up to watch the ball drop at midnight. The typical meal includes Cotechino, a type of fatty pork sausage, and lentils, both believed to bring good fortune, wealth, and prosperity for the coming year. Another equally as important and popular tradition is to wear red underwear on New Year’s Eve. The color red is believed to bring good luck and drive away evil spirits in the coming year, and a week or two leading up to the big night, many shops and street vendors sell red-colored underwear for everyone in the family. 

La Befana

Gift-giving and surprise treats don’t stop when Babbo Natale comes to town. Legend has it says there is also a little old witch who rides on a broom, known as La Befana, who, according to legend, delivers gifts and sweets to good children on the night of January 5th and coal (or dark candy) to those who have misbehaved. Children hang stockings for the Befana and wake up to find what she left. The 6th also coincides with the Epiphany, the arrival of the Three Wise Men. 

Do you have any other Italian traditions you celebrate? Let us know in the comments below! 

Written by Gabriela Prioetti

A journey to and from Italy: Then and Now

Italy: the land of delectable food, pristine coastlines, snowy mountain caps, romantic language, and mesmerizing dialects—one may say this country seems to offer it all. But what about 100 years ago?

A short history lesson

It wasn’t until 1861 that most of the Italian peninsula was united. It became the Kingdom of Italy ruled by Victor Emmanuel II hailing from Sardinia and was named the King of Italy. Before that, Italy was divided into smaller states, far from being anything close to united. But a more important date to pay close attention to is June 10, 1946, when the short-lived Italian Monarchy was overthrown and the Repubblica Italiana (italian Republic) was born. But this was not an easy feat. Between World War I and World War II, Fascist ruling, a dictatorship, country, language confusion, heritage division, and territory destruction, those years between the monarchy and liberation were far from what us Italy lovers experience now, AKA la dolce vita.

Then

So, what were these Italian people forced to do? Find life elsewhere. There were two waves of one of the largest voluntarily emigrations ever recorded in world history, commonly known as the Italian diaspora. The first wave began in the late 1800s continuing into the first four centuries of the 1900s, estimating that more than 13 million Italians voluntarily left Italy, escaping extreme poverty and fascism, especially those hailing from the south (think Sardinia, Sicily, Calabria, and Campania). These populations were mostly peasant farmers or poor city-goers who didn’t see much light at the end of the tunnel. The second wave began shortly after the war, continuing until the early 1970s. It is estimated that over the century, more than 25 million were living outside the country. But, where did they all go?

Argentina and Brazil quickly became two of the most popular destinations for migrants to settle (still to this day, Brazil and Argentina have the largest Italian populations outside of Italy in the world!). Other countries included America, specifically cities close to Ellis Island, including New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and New Jersey, and Canada. After the war, migration was seen heavily in northern European countries like Belgium, Switzerland, Germany, and France.  Despite where these immigrants ended up, building a new life was far from easy. Most faced harsh working environments, cramped, unkept living conditions, and prejudices. But as we say in Italian piano piano (slowly slowly), those Italian immigrants created life in big cities and began to integrate themselves into their new home and society thanks to a lot of determination and patience (patience).

Now

Today, over 80 million people around the world claim to have some type of Italian ancestry, i.e. full Italian heritage or partial Italian Heritage, and over 5 million Italian citizens live outside of the country. So we could say that history seems to repeat itself, but these 5 million citizens didn’t choose to leave due to war-stricken lands. But, there is still a fine line between job opportunities and sustainable living wages here in The Boot. As of 2023, the average yearly salary in Italy is just over 30,000 euros (around 2,500 euros a month) and this is some of the highest it has been in the 21st century. Although you may be thinking after a recent trip to Italy that the cost of living is more reasonable compared to big cities like New York and Sydney (sure, you may be on to something), the cost of rent and food prices are rising, the job market is slow, and pay is steadily staying the same. So it is no wonder that more and more giovani (youth) are deciding to pack up and say goodbye when an industrial, economic city like Milan isn’t cutting it anymore. Let’s not forget that nearly 25% of Italy’s population is made up of people over the age of 65, one may say anziani (elderly).

That being said, there’s no denying how much population change our beloved Italy has faced over the decades and in recent years. What do you think the faces of Italy will be like in the next ten years? Are we in the midst of the country’s third wave of Italian diaspora? Let us know in the comments below!

Picture & Article by Gabriela R. Proietti

L’estate Italiana (Italian summer) is over *sadly.* As millions of Italians return to their home base, day-to-day life begins to come to fruition once more. Sunset spritzes are traded in for pre-work mornings at the neighborhood coffee bar, promenade strolls for days at the office, and sunny beaches for even longer days preparing for the new year ahead. 

You may be experts in all things Italian culture, from dining etiquette to embracing everything there is to living la dolce vita. Still, some things may surprise you like the educational system in Italy (hint: it is very different from what you may be expecting). Traveling to Italy, thinking of moving, or generally curious? In honor of the back-to-school season, let’s take a look at what it’s like for children going to school in Bella Italia. 

Grade Levels & School Attendance 

Compulsory schooling begins at six years old across the Italian Boot and is mandatory until the age of 16. However, earlier options are available for families that want to jump-start their child’s education. These are known as asilo nido (baby daycare that typically begins being offered around 6 months) and scuola dell’infanzia (preschool from ages 3 to 5-6 years old). Note, kindergarten, also known as prep, does not exist in Italy!  

Primary school, referred to as scuola elementare, begins from age 6 to 11 years, depending on when the child was born. Days are long (think 8-4:30) and there are 5 years total. After primary school comes scuola media aka middle school, lasting another 3 years, and finally liceo, from 14 to 19 years of age (5 years total, and yes, teens technically have an extra year of high school…yikes!). 

School Selection 

In Italy, families can choose where they want to go to school! What?! That’s right, it doesn't stop at which school institution is closest to your place of residency. Although it is not guaranteed the school selected will automatically be appointed to the child, it is highly likely. Turning to high school, the material taught is not the same across the board. Students are obliged to choose a high school specializing in specific subject matters (which usually occurs for most come university and college level…can you feel the pressure?). Options include school of arts, classical studies, sciences, languages, human sciences, and music and dance. 

Study, study, study

Studying for exams and completing assigned homework is a HUGE part of Italian schooling. Afterschool activities are rarely offered by the school (especially in the public system), and elementary school kids to high schoolers spend most afternoons at their home desks preparing for upcoming assignments or exams. Young pupils can expect 3 hours of homework per night and middle to high school 5-6 hours per night. Even after all the planning and preparation, receiving good grades (on a scale of 1-10) in Italy is nearly impossible (if you are rewarded an 8, that is considered excelling and a 6 is usually the average). Many exams are given orally and rarely are given tests that are multiple choice (sorry!). 

Other Quirky Elements 

Are you thinking to yourself how quirky the Italian schooling system is? It doesn’t stop there! Here are a few other interesting elements. Cursive is still taught and is mandatory, and students rarely write with a pencil rather a pen. Italian summers are one of the longest offered in the world (from early June to the middle of September) and summer day camps are not the norm. Some high schools have 6-day school weeks (Monday to Saturday), religion class is part of the curriculum, and lunch is never brought from home but kids eat what is offered by the school.