Getting to Know Molise – Italy’s Most Mysterious Region 

“Molise non esiste” – Molise doesn’t exist. 

What started out as a joke amongst Italians alike has turned into a national phenomenon, poking light fun at one of Italy’s twenty regions—a mysterious, small, off-the-beaten-track type of region, that is. Surrounded by tourism-dominating regions like Puglia, Campania, and Abruzzo, it’s no wonder you may not have heard of this small, Narnia-like place. But contrary to popular belief, it absolutely does exist—and is beyond worth a trip down the Boot.

So, what’s waiting for you down in little ol’ Molise, you may ask?

Image - The Little Italian School (Campobasso)

Why It’s Worth Visiting

Molise is authentic as authenticity gets (That’s right, move over Orvieto and Bologna!). There are no high speed trains from major hub destinations like Rome and Florence, despite its decently central location, so off the bat, you’re already destined to take it slow. Instead, you are greeted with Adriatic coastlines, unspoilt nature, barely touched villages, traditional cuisine, and knowing each other by word of mouth. Molise feels like a breathe of fresh air. And you’ll want to definitely take in a few breaths when you visit, because the air is that fresh, believe us!

Mass tourism—and tourism in general, for that matter—has not taken over the region, which is what makes Molise all that much more magical. To get there, you’ll likely need to rent a car, take a regional train that involves a few pit stops along the way, meander on winding roads, or better yet, join a group tour with locals who are spearheading the open doors to those curious enough to explore the region. 

From ancient Samnite ruins to local artisans still practicing century-old crafts, there’s a richness that runs deep here you’ll feel as soon as you cross over into Molise territory. Into nature? Hike through mountain trails. Looking for that la vita lenta? Linger over a long lunch by the sea. Interested in observing daily life? Just sit in the piazza with a coffee and soak up the rhythm every day that not even Italians outside of Molise have seen. 

Image - The Little Italian School (Termoli - Adriatic Coast)

Molise’s two halves 

Molise is divided into two provinces.

First, Campobasso, the larger of the two, which is also home to the region’s capital. Campobasso—the cultural beating heart of Molise. It is perched between the Apennines and the Adriatic, and is definitely more traveled than its counterpart, Isernia. Isernia is quieter, smaller, and more mountainous—but don’t be fooled. It offers its own unique charm: centuries-old artisanal culture, traditional rural life, archaeological sites, and intimate annual festivals unique to each village.

Where to go 

Like exploring Rome in Lazio or Florence in Tuscany, it would only be amiss to skip out on Molise’s capital Campobasso. Starting what is noted as the one of the biggest symbols of the city and even the entire region, take the climb up the Castello Monforte, a medieval castle that is believed to date back to the 14th and 15th century that that overlooks the city and the mountains. After the trek back down, there is the Samnite Museum that explores the lives of the Samnite people via artifacts before the Romans arrived to the region. Take a chance to explore the town’s medieval historic center where you can get lost between tight corners and local trattorias. About a 40 minute drive from Campobasso, you’ll reach Molise’s coastal jewel along the Adriatic sea, called Termoli. The ancient fishing town is noted for its pastel color buildings, ancient walls, sandy beaches and crystal clear waters like a summer day at Spiaggia di Rio Vivo. 

Agnone, located in the province of Isernia, is an artisan haven. Known as the “town of bells,” it is home to the world-famous Marinelli Bell Foundry, noted as one of the oldest bell manufacturers in the world. There are also other traditional crafts prominent in the town,  like cheese-making and ironwork to check-out. Other notable towns to explore include Jelsi, noted for its extravagant sagre (festivals), Pietrabbondante, and Sepino, noted for its roman ruins. 

Image - The Little Italian School (Campobasso)

What to Eat

Let’s start with Cavatelli pasta which may just be Molise’s pride and joy. Originating from the territory famous for its production of durum wheat. Today, they are typically served with pork rib ‘sugo’, a specialty of the region. Then there’s Caciocavallo di Agnone, a nutty, stretched-curd cheese that’s often served melted over grilled bread. For a coastal dish, don’t miss out on Brodetto di Pesce alla Termolese—a flavorful fish stew from Termoli made with the daily catch, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs.

The Little Italian School Molise Tour

If you are keen to visit this little hidden gem we call home, join us on our Slow Living Molise Tour next July 2026. Click on the link to find out more here

The Unique Language Landscape of Italy

Termoli, Molise, Italy (Pic credit The Little Italian School)

Author: Anna Wolf

In Italy, people speak Italian – obviously, this is nothing new to you. And as an Italian enthusiast, you have probably also been told that there are an infinite number of regional and local dialects spoken all over the peninsula. But did you know that there are 12 (!) distinct languages other than Italian that are historically spoken in different corners of Italy?

There is for example Ladin, Franco-Provençal, or Catalan. In fact, as you can see on the map, Italy’s linguistic diversity resembles a disorganised patchwork of different language groups, spread all over the peninsula. It is estimated that in total about 3 million Italian citizens speak a so-called historic minority language.

As a lover of Italian language, you might want to practice your newly acquired Italian skills and travel to some Italian destinations. But if you go to Aosta, Sardegna or the Dolomites, you will be surprised to hear locals greeting you with: “Bonjour!” (French), “Ajò!” (Sardinian) or “Bun dé!” (Ladin) instead of the classical “buongiorno” that you would expect.

Italy’s linguistic minorities differ considerably from each other, in the numbers and in the way they are taught at school. For instance, while the German-speaking minority in the North, located in South Tyrol/Alto Adige, continues to have a stable number of speakers (approximately 360.000) and enjoys an elaborate protection system with German language schools, some smaller language groups such as the Croatian minority in Molise lack support and numbers are continuously decreasing.

But why do those communities within Italy speak these different languages, you are wondering? Well, historians will tell you that Italian has not always been the majority language of Italy. Back in time when Italy unified as a state (1861), all those culturally diverse regions were integrated into the new nation state. During the first decades after the unification, through the new school system, the population was educated in Italian – which then was a foreign language to many of them. A famous saying of those times was, “Fatta l’Italia, bisogna fare gli italiani!” (Having made Italy, we now have to make the Italians!).

The historic reasons why those different language communities were living on the peninsula are various: In the south, the Arbëreshë, were descendants of Albanian populations that had migrated there in several waves, starting in the 15th century. Even earlier, Greek populations had settled in Calabria and Puglia, where they continued to speak the “Griko” language. In the north, new linguistic groups became part of Italy as a result of the unification wars and of WW1: the French and Franco-Provencal speaking minority in Aosta, as well as the German speaking minority in South Tyrol and the Slovenian speaking minority in the region around Trieste. After WW2, Italy recognised the linguistic minorities present on its territory in its 1948 Constitution and committed itself to protect them.

So, the next time you meet an Italian person, you might ask them, if they by chance also speak a minority language. Maybe you will be surprised. Anyways, now you know how rich Italy’s linguistic diversity is - and that people in Italy do speak Italian… but not only!                       (~520 words)

This is a very easy light version but can be tweeked to your liking. You can add a couple of eggs to the potato mash, but I didn’t for this one. You could also add peas, a little cooked onion if you like, or even substitute the salumi for tuna.

• 1 kg potato - boiled, mashed and a tablespoon of butter added

• 300 g di mozzarella

• 150 g di prosciutto cotto

• About a handful of breadcrumbs

• salt

• pepe

• 80 g di grana padano or parmigiano

Head to the Instagram reel to watch the process. https://www.instagram.com/the_little_italian_school/

I am lucky to have been able not only to live in Italy, but also to return to our loved ones there on a yearly basis (apart from the last two covid stricken years).

This helps to stay up to date with changes, which are happening more rapidly now because of technology, and things are definitely always evolving – yes even fairytale Italy!

There are some Italian cultural traits that are pretty standard, but of course still always ‘general’. Things like family values, meal rituals and no cappuccino after 11am are thankfully embedded in the bloodline. Then, there are the others that make us cringe when we hear them being mentioned.

‘Ciao bella!’

No. Just no. You just won’t hear it in Italy. And it makes me cringe when I hear it. By all means, ‘ciao bella’ your heart out. Just remember it’s not an Italian saying.

‘Italians speak loudly’

Well, let’s say we are animated…and sometimes it can get loud when there’s a room full of family or friends. I also think this depends on the different Italian regions. Southern Italians are generally a little more animated than northerners.

‘We use our hands and body language to speak’

This is definitely true, but some people more than others. It will always depend on what is being spoken about. The gestures are often more prominent when the discussion is getting heated or when someone really believes in what they are saying.

 ‘We listen to the piano accordian all the time’.

NO ! Infact the opposite! Italians love music and like most cultures have their traditional folk songs. The instruments played can vary but the most well known about overseas is the piano accordian. But no, you barely hear or see it these days like once upon a time. It still exists, a few still play it, it’s no doubt a beautiful part of history, but over the last 40 years I have seen it played once at a baptism because my friend’s brother pulled it out, blew the dust off it and belted out some tunes. The new generation don’t really dig it.  

‘We eat pasta and pizza everyday’

Well, I can say that this can actually be true. Pasta is a mealtime staple. Pizza is one of those things you may grab in the evening when you go out and get peckish. I think people imagine we eat huge quantities of it all in one day– and that is simply not true. Small portions are key to a balanced diet.

It is also true that what other cultures dress their pasta with, or slop on their pizza, may be the reason for weight gain, and why they think pasta and pizza are bad for you. Our condiments are generally light and delicate, and often vegetable based! On special occasions we like to lash out and may eat something fried.

Italians aren’t afraid to show affection in public

This is true. It really is a way of life, and I think it’s wonderful. Infact we don’t mind displaying all of our other emotions in public either.

Italians are always late

I wouldn’t agree with this one. Maybe our relaxed approach to life confuses everyone. Most of the people in our circle are pretty punctual, but like anyone anywhere, you’ll always get the person who is always late to everything.

Family is the most important thing in life

This is true. The family unit is everything. Could this be why a lot of Italians seem so sassy and confident? It’s a pretty good bet it is. Family is the foundation of life and you can always count on them. If you have nothing else, you have always got your family, and they always have your back.

All Italians are ‘Mafiosi’

Just no.

Italians love coffee

This is generally true but I know many Italians who don’t drink coffee, but those who do are extremely passionate about it. The ‘pausa caffe`’ is so much more than just about the coffee. It’s about pausing, chatting, and briefly catching up on what’s been happening, so even those who don’t drink coffee may prefer a different drink to enjoy the ritual with.

All Italians are soccer crazy

Well a lot of us are, but of course not all. So I guess you could say this has a little truth to it.

Italians live at home until they marry.

If we are living in the same town as our parents that is very likely. It used to be standard, but nowadays a lot of Italian youth are leaving to find work overseas, so yes if we need to we will, and we aren’t ashamed of it! When I married we ended up living with our parents for a year or two until we could move out. Family stick together.

So many of us had to cancel our Italian summer holiday this year because of the pandemic and are feeling a little disappointed, but if you can try to imagine what life is like in Italy right now, you may not feel so bad.

Travel restrictions in Italy have been eased this month, and according to our family and friends life still feels so surreal. Travel restrictions between regions has been lifted but since the oubreak of Covid19 until now, travelling was not allowed unless it was for work. If you are travelling by car with a someone other than a family member you are limited to two people and both passengers need to wear face masks.

Since the 18th of May Cafés and Restaurants have been open with limited table service to help prevent large crowds. Cinemas and theatres will reopen on June the 15th with a limit of 200 people allowed at once inside, and facemasks worn by staff and patrons is a must. Social distancing applies in all public spaces at all times and everyone needs to avoid contact with people they don’t live with, including relatives and especially the elderly. Regions like Lombardia and Piemonte where the outbreak hit the worst are making it mandatory to wear masks even outdoors.

If you are sporting a temperature of over 37.5 degrees you need to stay home, and if venturing out to dine you may be asked to have your temperature taken and to register your personal information for tracking purposes. If you refuse you will find yourself sent on your merry little way.

So with social distancing including outdoor areas a must and wearing mandatory facemasks, it may be a blessing to be able to skip your travel plans this year to Italy and have a little extra time to put your dollars aside for a more relaxed holiday to our beautiful country in the near future.

Quantity for 2 loaves or 1 loaf and some mini brioche with leftover pastry

1 cup milk (luke warm)

1 teaspoon dry yeast

600gr flour 00

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¾ cup sugar

1 egg

Bustina di vanillina (or some vanilla essence or lemon rind if preferred)

Filling – Fig Jam (or any jam of choice or chocolate spread)

Melt the yeast in the luke warm milk (set aside)

Beat the egg, vanilla and sugar in a bowl (large enough to slowly add the flour later)

Add evoo and beat

Add milk and yeast mixture and beat

Slowly add flour and knead until soft and elastic

Place dough in bowl covered and leave to rise for an hour to two, making sure it doubles in size or almost.

Now you will need a rolling pin and a rectangular bread tin. If you don’t have a bread tin you can use a ciambella tin.

Flour your board and place risen dough on top and knead it a little getting back to a ball shape.

Roll it out with a rolling pin, into a rectangular shape that once rolled into a log, will fit into a rectangle bread tin.

Spread your jam over it, leaving a little strip at the top of the rectangle you can wet a little with some water so it seals up when you roll it up to close the log shape.

Roll the dough into a log and place in tin lined wth baking paper or some flour

(optional – beat one egg and brush the dough with it before baking)

Oven 180 degrees Celsius and bake for about 40 minutes or if you like a crust leave a few minutes longer

Italian Procession - Riccia, Molise

Easter in Italy is a huge celebration, and like many Italian events it is a deep rooted religious one. Like all of Italy’s traditional celebrations, ‘Pasqua’ (Easter) time comes with some delicious traditional foods that are made throughout the country’s twenty beautiful regions. The most well known are, ‘La Pastiera Napoletana’, which is an Easter pie made in Naples, and ‘La Colomba di Pasqua’ which is a sweet dry cake similar to the Christmas Panettone only shaped like a dove, representing the symbol of new life. In Molise and Abbruzzo we make sweet and savoury ‘Fiadoni’. Here is a blog I wrote last Easter with the recipe: click here

Here are some typical Italian sayings that either refer to Easter or are taken from an event that happened during the Easter period but can be used all year round.

Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi!

This means, ‘Christmas with your family, easter with whoever you like!’. While Easter Sunday is usually spent with family, Pasquetta (Easter Monday) is always spent with friends and usually by having a picnic.

Lungo come una Quaresima

A long as Lent -  With the lent period lasting 40 days, this saying speaks for itself! It’s used to describe someone or something that is boring or drawn out

Felice come una Pasqua

Happy as Easter. (Happy as Larry) - With Easter in Italy being a very religious celebration because of Christ rising on Easter Sunday, you can imagine the immense joyful energy in the air. New life brings a lot of happiness!

Portare la propria croce

'To carry one’s own cross’. The saying refers to the pain and suffering by Jesus Christ as he carried his own cross, so it used to express when someone is going through a hard time. 

Essere come San Tommaso

One of the Apostles named Thomas said he didn’t believe Jesus had died and risen and said, ‘If I don't see the marks left by the nails in his hands, nor pass my fingers through his ribs, I will not believe’, so this saying is used when a person won’t believe something until they see it with their own eyes.

BUONA PASQUA A TUTTI ! (HAPPY EASTER TO ALL)

Joy shared around the dinner table, love of food, wine and mother earth, closeness to family and friends and being warm and hospitable are just a few aspects of the Italian culture loved by many. I don’t think there is any other place in the world that has more songs written about ‘la mamma’ than Italy! Here are a few warm and fuzzy Italian sayings that will give you a better understanding of just how important ‘la familgia’ is to us

1.    La famiglia e` tutto – Family is everything

2.    Amor di madre, amor senza limiti – (Love of mother, love without limits) A mother’s love has no limit

3.    La mamma e` sempre la mamma – (The mum is always the mum) No matter what mamma does, she’s always my mamma

4.    Chi si volta, e chi si gira, sempre a casa va finire – (He who turns round and round, always ends up home) No matter where you go, you will always end up at home

5.    A ogni uccello il suo nido e` bello – (every bird loves his own nest) -Home sweet home

6.    Una buona mamma vale cento maestre – A good mother is worth a hundred teachers

7.    Un bimbo che non gioca, felicita` ne ha poca – A child who doesn’t play has little happiness

8.    Il sangue non e` acqua – (Blood is not water) – Blood is thicker than water

9.    L’affetto verso i genitori e` fondamento di ogni virtu`- love towards your parents is fundamentally the greatest virtue

10.  Non ricordiamo dei giorni, ci ricordiamo dei momenti – We don’t remember days, we remember moments

Napoli - Naples, Italy

Ahhhh Italia ! The country of ‘la dolce lingua’, Romeo and Juliet, dramatic opera’s and lovers in the streets showing affection like no-one is looking. Funnily enough, Valentine’s Day isn’t made a huge deal of in Italy like it is in other countries. Maybe because Italians show plentiful amounts of love and affection on a daily basis to their partners, friends and family. ‘La Festa di San Valentino’ is celebrated all around the world thanks to the ancient Roman festival Lupercalia. The festival celebrated the coming of spring and men and women being paired off by lottery. Thank goodness we now celebrate it with flowers, cards and love notes to a partner most of us have chosen ourselves.

Here are a few Italian love phrases you can use to woo your sweatheart this Valentines Day!

1.     Ti amo

‘I love you’

A phrase familiar to many ears, and one we use when we want to tell our partner we love them. Ti amo isn’t a phrase we would use to tell a family member or friend we love them…they may get the wrong idea!

2.     Ti voglio bene

‘ I love you / I care about you’

This is the phrase we use to tell family members, friends and partners we love them.

3.     Sono pazzo di te (If you are female you say ‘sono pazza di te’)

‘I am crazy for you’

4.     Sono innamorato di te (if you are female you say ‘sono innamorata di te’)

‘I am in love with you’

5.     Amore mio

‘ My love’

 Used as a term of endearment to your partner but mothers also call their  child ‘amore’ like English speakers say ‘darling’.

6.     Dammi un bacio

‘ Give me a kiss’

 You can use this for anyone really! But if you want to ask your child for a kiss you  would ask for a ‘bacetto’.

7.     Ti penso sempre

‘I think about you all the time’

This phrase can be used to sign off on a love letter or email, but can also be said in conversation.

8.     Sei bellissmo (or bellissima if you are saying it to a girl)

‘You are beautiful’

This can also be used to say to anyone.

9.     Sei sempre nel mio cuore

‘You are always in my heart’

When you just want to be a sweetheart to your partner and make them feel loved

10.  Amo solo te

‘I love only you’

Another phrase to melt the heart of your lover

Campobasso, Molise- Italy

So apparently pasta was brought to Italy from China by Marco Polo in the 13th century. They say it derives from noodles. Hats off to the Asian cuisine. What a blessing! Because what the Italians created with it after has gone down in history!

When I think of pasta, fresh or dry, I think of way more than just food. For us Italians it’s a part of life, it’s good for you, and we eat it every single day. Here are some of thine things I think of when I hear the word ‘pasta’…. 

Mamma helping out at the school for our Cavatelli class

Eavesdropping

As a child, making pasta brought us into the kitchen on Sundays when the women of the family were chit chatting while preparing family lunch, and we would eavesdrop. They’d be updating each other on their week or reminiscing about the past, and the stories I’d love most were the ones nonna told about things that happened back in her paese in Calabria. They’d giggle and talk loudly, or lower their voice if it was a bit of juicy gossip. The ‘ragu’ (meat sauce) would be simmering away and would fill the air with an aroma that would make even a full tummy rumble. If you told them you were hungry they’d get that look of distress on their face typical of an Italian mother, and dip a bit of Italian loaf into it, and hand it to you as a snack followed by the words ‘mangia figlia’ (eat child).

Ravioli with zucchini, eggplant and mushroom

Sunday lunch

Sundays were definitely the day of the week we’d look forward to. It’s when the extended family would gather at nonna & nonno’s and we’d eat, drink and laugh for hours. Either homemade potato gnocchi or ravioli with spinach and ricotta or meat filling were nonna’s favourite fresh pasta types to make, followed by a salad with the meat from the ragu sauce. Standard. The ragu was a treat (if you like meat) because during the week the pasta was usually made with vegetable based condiments.

Sunday lunch in tavernetta (Ripalimosani, Italy)

It’s easy, good for you & covers all food groups

It truly is one of the easiest and quickest meals you can make and it covers a lot of food groups in just one plate. You don’t have to make your pasta from scratch all of the time. There’s nothing wrong with a good packet pasta. Make a quick sauce with some greens, legumes, or meat you like and you’re done. Sauces don’t have to be heavy with cream or other rich ingredients. Extra virgin olive oil and water to simmer are usually the best.

Zia in Italy preparing the tagliatelle with the Sunday lunch meat sugo

Therapy

Just like sport, knitting, reading and other hobbies, making fresh pasta can be very therapeutic. It’s kind of like a ‘zone out’ time and at the same time you create something that can be shared with family or friends. We all love a family or friend gathering full of good food, good vino and good conversation.

Nonno in Italy serving up the tubettini pasta

Cheap

Absolutely. A nice plate of pasta feeds so many people at such a small cost. Quick, easy, simple and cheap. It’s definitely a win win.

Pasta e ceci

So how on earth could anyone say that pasta is ‘bad’ for you? How do Italians live longer and stay so trim while consuming daily portions of pasta? Because we know the difference between good food and bad and won’t let the marketers of fad diets persuade us into having it any other way, especially when nonna has told you otherwise.